Mold Making and Resin Casting video for making sculpture miniatures:
Card Making – Lazy Daisy
Image for Card Making – Lazy Daisy DIY Craft Project
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5 1/2″ x 8″ inches brown or orange Cardstock
Brown or orange embroidery floss
Green embroidery floss
White embroidery floss
1 1/4″ x 2″ muslin
Scissors
Needle
Glue
* Time taken clock Time: 30 minutes – 1 hour
* Suitable for ages Suitable For: Most Ages
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This free paper craft project shows you how to make your very own hand-made paper card using simple Card making instructions.
1. Take your muslin and draw a flower on it.
2. Use brown or orange embroidery floss for the petals and use the Lazy Daisy stitch.
3. Use white embroidery floss for the center of the flower using the Satin stitch.
4. Use green embroidery floss for the stem of the flower using a Backstitch.
5. Fold your cardstock in half
6. Fray the edges of the fabric a tiny bit.
7. Glue the flower on the front of the card
Source: Craftbits
I’ve decided to put together a basic “how-to” guide that covers rubber mold making and plastic resin molding and casting . I learned quite a bit over the last 5 years while building my B9 Robot and more than 20 Mystic Seers’. Hopefully you will pick up a few tips here that will help you avoid some of the pitfalls.
If you’re going to get semi serious in molding, you’ll want a vacuum pump. I picked one up on ebay for about $100. It’s an industrial pump and is very rugged. You may want to buy one of the smaller hobby vacuum pumps available, but I went for the commercial one as it should last me longer, and it actually cost less. You want one that can pull 29 “inches of mercury” for a complete vacuum.
First, a few things you’ll need. Get yourself a good 100 piece basic set of LEGOS. Yes, I said LEGOS! If you’re lucky you have a son that went through the LEGOS phase. If you’re like me, you may still have yours from when you were young. Either way, they are a must if you want to quickly make molds of various sizes. You want a set with just the basic pieces and none of the fancy special pieces.
You’ll also need a vacuum chamber. I looked into getting an actual vacuum bell, which is basically a large inverted blown glass bowl. They sell for several hundred dollars, so I passed on those. I went to my local Wal-mart and picked up a set of three food vacuum containers for about $25. They sell them as an accessory to the home food vacuum packing sets. It comes with the all-important “Universal Accessory Sealer” vacuum cap. This set does not include the vacuum itself, but you may kill two birds by buying a set that includes both the vacuum pump and vacuum chamber. But, I do not know if the food vacuum pumps have enough suction, so keep your receipt.
You may want to pick up one of the “starter” molding rubber kits and plastic resin kits. I have tried kits from both Smooth-On and Por-a-Cast. Smooth-On has what they call “Super Sampler” kits that contain enough rubber for several small molds and dozens of small resin parts.
When you’re serious, you order the Silicone rubber by the gallon. I use Smooth-On, Mold Max-20
You will need some Molding Clay. Make sure you get clay that is Sulfur free. Silicone rubber does not like to be near clay that contains sulfur and it will inhibit the curing process. I get my clay from Michaels Craft stores. Just look on the label for “Sulfur Free” or a statement that it can be used with silicone rubber molds.
One more piece of equipment that will make your job easier is a digital scale. I happened to have a small digital postal scale that works perfect for this. Some of the silicone molding materials require you to mix the two parts by weight (usually a 10:1 ratio) and others by volume, typically 1:1. If you have the ratio off by too much, it may not cure or it may cure too fast.
Prepare you original – If you are reproducing a part or existing object you have, clean it well. The item can not be porous or it will get stuck in the mold. You may have to use a sealer on the surface.
Choose your parting line carefully. You need to decide where your parting line will be. That is where the two halves of the mold will separate. Look for undercuts in your part that will prevent you mold from coming apart. Knowing that you may have a seam visible on your finished part will also help you decide where it should be. Try to line it up with a straight or flat side of you part if you have one. Also make note of the original part’s seam, if there is one. Try to match your seam to the original one, if you can.
To read more, visit: B9 RobotResource
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http://www.pearlpaint.com/
For over 70 years, Pearl has been serving artists and artisans. Definitely one of the best art and craft supply stores in New York!
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The name CreateForLess clearly defines our mission, to help crafters ‘Create’ their projects ‘For Less’ time, money and hassle. This mission is also reflected in our slogan “Create More, Spend Less”. CreateForLess opened its virtual doors in August 2001 and began offering:
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